The present invention relates to a solid composition, for example a cosmetic composition such as a care, treatment and/or make-up composition for the skin, including the scalp, and/or for the lips of human beings, comprising a thickened liquid fatty phase. The composition can be in the form of a stick or tube of make-up, such as a lipstick, the application of which can give a glossy, non-migrating deposit.
It is common practice to use a structured, i.e., thickened or gelled, liquid fatty phase in compositions, such as in cosmetic and dermatological compositions, in order to obtain the desired consistency. The thickening of oils (or of phases that are liquid at room temperature) makes it easier to take up the product from its packaging without any significant loss, to limit the diffusion of the product to the local treatment area, to distribute the product uniformly over the local treatment area, or to be able to use the product in amounts that are sufficient to obtain the desired cosmetic or dermatological effect. This is especially the case in solid compositions such as deodorants, lip balms and lipsticks, concealer products and cast foundations. This thickening is desirable for care, hygiene or make-up compositions such as lipsticks, which are preferably distributed homogeneously over the local surface to be treated, as well as for hair compositions, which are preferably spread and distributed uniformly along the keratin fibers and which preferably do not run down the forehead, the nape of the neck, the face or into the eyes.
To overcome these problems, use is usually made of waxes or fillers. Unfortunately, these waxes and/or fillers have a tendency to make the composition matte and opaque, which is not always desirable, in particular for a lipstick. Specifically, women are always in search of a lipstick in the form of a tube which gives a glossy film; moreover, certain compositions such as lip balms or ointments can be in the form of translucent, or even transparent, sticks.
It is also known practice to thicken oils with polymeric thickeners. Unfortunately, the known thickeners for oils have to be used in large amounts in order to obtain a gel of high viscosity, for example of greater than 1.3 Pa.s. However, too large an amount of thickener can give the composition inadequate cosmetic properties, in particular, a sticky feel and a lack of slipperiness. These drawbacks can potentially be very inconvenient, or even prohibitive.
The structuring of the liquid fatty phase makes it possible to limit its exudation from solid compositions and, in addition, to limit the migration of this phase in wrinkles and fine lines after it has been deposited on the skin or the lips, which is a particularly desired quality for a lipstick. The reason for this is that a large migration of the liquid fatty phase, charged with dyestuffs, leads to an unaesthetic effect around the lips, which particularly accentuates wrinkles and fine lines. This migration is often mentioned by women as a major defect of conventional lipsticks.
The aim of the present invention is to produce a composition, such as a cosmetic composition, which is in solid form, comprises little or no wax, and is capable of conserving good cosmetic properties, such as a certain level of translucency.
A subject of the invention is thus a composition, such as a cosmetic or dermatological composition, which is in solid form, comprising at least one oil and at least one compound defined by formula I as described below, wherein the composition comprises less than about 5% by weight of wax relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition can be in the form of a translucent, or even transparent, anhydrous stick. It can also be an optionally colored xe2x80x9ctransfer-resistantxe2x80x9d or xe2x80x9cnon-migratingxe2x80x9d composition.
Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic treatment process for a support chosen from facial and body skin, mucous membranes and keratin fibers, comprising applying to the support a composition as defined above.
Another subject of the invention is the use in a composition, such as a cosmetic or dermatological composition, which is in solid form and which comprises at least one oil and less than about 5% of wax relative to the total weight of the composition, of a sufficient amount of at least one compound of formula I described below, in order to structure/gel the composition.
It has been found that the use of the compounds of formula I makes it possible to structure liquid fatty phases, or oily phases, or even to gel them completely, and thus to obtain stable cosmetic compositions in solid gelled form, which may be free of waxes. This is true even when a very low content of the compound of formula I is used.
The composition according to the invention has good cosmetic properties: it is not sticky when applied, and is slippery and easy to apply. It gives a homogeneous, uniform film which covers well and is comfortable to wear.
Furthermore, the composition can advantageously be clear, transparent or translucent. The terms xe2x80x9ctranslucentxe2x80x9d and xe2x80x9ctransparentxe2x80x9d can be understood by the conventional definitions given in the dictionary. Thus, a translucent composition allows light to pass through without, however, allowing the contours of objects to be sharply distinguished. A transparent composition allows light to pass through easily and allows objects to be sharply distinguished through its thickness.
In general, a transparent composition will have a maximum light transmittance value, irrespective of the wavelength from 400 nm to 800 nm, of at least 35% through a 1 cm thick sample, and in another embodiment, of at least 50% (see EP 291 334, the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference herein). A translucent composition, for its part, will generally have a maximum light transmittance value ranging from 2% to 35%.
The transmittance can be measured by placing a 1 cm thick sample in the light beam of a spectrophotometer working in the wavelengths of the luminous spectrum.
Moreover, the compounds of formula I can advantageously be used to prepare colored xe2x80x9ctransfer-resistantxe2x80x9d compositions, for which there is very limited migration of the colored film in wrinkles and fine lines, such as those around the lips or the eyes. These compositions also have the advantage of not being deposited, or of being only slightly deposited, on certain supports with which they are placed in contact, such as, for example, a glass, an item of clothing or the skin.
The composition according to the invention thus comprises at least one compound corresponding to formula I: 
wherein:
the variables R are chosen, independently of each other, from a hydrogen atom and a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon-based chain comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and in another embodiment, 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and
the variables Y are chosen, independently of each other, from the following groups: xe2x80x94COxe2x80x94Sxe2x80x94Rxe2x80x2; xe2x80x94COxe2x80x94NHRxe2x80x2; NHxe2x80x94CORxe2x80x2 and xe2x80x94Sxe2x80x94CORxe2x80x2; wherein the variables Rxe2x80x2 are chosen, independently of each other, from:
a hydrogen atom;
an aryl group;
an aralkyl group, such as an aryl group substituted with a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon-based chain comprising 1 to 22 carbon atoms, and in another embodiment, 10 to 18 carbon atoms; and
a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated hydrocarbon-based chain comprising 1 to 22 carbon atoms, and in another embodiment, 10 to 18 carbon atoms, and optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from aryl, ester, amide and urethane groups; and/or optionally comprising one or more hetero atoms chosen from O, S and N; and/or optionally substituted with one or more fluorine atoms and/or hydroxyl radicals.
In one embodiment of the invention, the variables R are hydrogen atoms.
In another embodiment, the variables Y are chosen, independently from each other, from the groups xe2x80x94COxe2x80x94NHRxe2x80x2 and xe2x80x94NHxe2x80x94CORxe2x80x2.
According to another embodiment of the invention, the variables Rxe2x80x2 are chosen, independently from each other, from an aryl group, an aralkyl group wherein the linear or branched alkyl chain comprises 12 to 16 carbon atoms, and a linear or branched C12-C18 alkyl chain.
Among the representative compounds of formula I, mention may be made, for example, of the compounds wherein Y is a group xe2x80x94COxe2x80x94NHRxe2x80x2, wherein Rxe2x80x2 is chosen from an aryl group substituted with a linear or branched C12-C16 alkyl chain, and an unsubstituted, linear or branched C12-C18 alkyl chain.
The three substituents represented by Y can be, in the compound of formula I, in cis-cis, cis-trans or trans-trans conformation relative to each other. According to one embodiment, at least one of these substituents can be placed in an equatorial position on the cyclohexane ring, and in another embodiment, all the substituents Y are placed in an equatorial position.
Among the compounds which may be used in the context of the invention, mention may be made of:
cis-1,3,5-tris(dodecylaminocarbonyl)cyclohexane,
cis-1,3,5-tris(octadecylaminocarbonyl)cyclohexane,
cis-1,3,5-tris[N-(3,7-dimethyloctyl)aminocarbonyl]cyclohexane,
trans-1,3,5-trimethyl-1,3,5-tris(dodecylaminocarbonyl)cyclohexane, and
trans-1,3,5-trimethyl-1,3,5-tris(octadecylaminocarbonyl)cyclohexane.
The compounds of formula I are well known to those skilled in the art and can be prepared according to the usual processes.
The compounds of formula I can be present in the composition in an amount which can readily be determined by a person skilled in the art as a function of the desired effect, for example in an amount ranging from 1 to 40% by weight, or 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the compounds of formula I are present in an amount ranging from 3 to 8% by weight or even 4 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
It has moreover been observed that even the use of a small amount of compounds of formula I, for example about 2 to 6% by weight, can lead to an adequate gelation of the composition according to the invention. This is due to the large thickening power of the compounds of formula I, which enables them to be effective at low concentration, for example of about 2 to 6% by weight, whereas it would be necessary to use 10 to 20% by weight of common gelling agents in order to obtain an equivalent result.
Without being bound by the present explanation, it has been observed that the structuring, or gelation, of oils by means of the compounds of formula I may be due to the formation of piles in the form of columns of the molecules of compounds of formula I, resulting in the formation of a network of fibers or lamellae, comprising the compounds of formula I and the oils. This network of fibers or lamellae does not scatter light, resulting in a certain level of translucency, or even transparency.
The composition according to the invention can further comprise at least one cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable oil which is liquid at room temperature (25xc2x0 C.). These oils can be hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone and/or fluoro oils. They can be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
Representative oils which can be mentioned include:
hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene;
hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides; sunflower oil; corn oil; soybean oil; marrow oil; grapeseed oil; groundnut oil; sweet almond oil; beauty-leaf oil; palm oil; sesame oil; hazelnut oil; apricot oil; macadamia oil; castor oil; avocado oil; caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel; jojoba oil; and karite butter;
linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, purcellin oil, and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam;
synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formula R3COOR4, wherein R3 is a higher fatty acid residue comprising 7 to 29 carbon atoms, and R4 is a hydrocarbon-based chain comprising 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as, for example, purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octydodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, and isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, and fatty alkyl heptanoates, octanoates and decanoates; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters;
fatty alcohols comprising 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol;
partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-containing fluoro oils;
silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs); alkyldimethicones; silicones modified with aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, which are optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups; phenylsilicone oils such as polyphenylmethylsiloxanes or phenyltrimethicones; and
mixtures thereof.
The oils used can be volatile and/or non-volatile. The term xe2x80x9cvolatile oilxe2x80x9d means an oil which is capable of evaporating at room temperature from a support onto which it has been applied. In other words, it is an oil which has a measurable vapor pressure at 25xc2x0 C. and 1 atmosphere, such as a vapor pressure greater than 0 Pa, and ranging, for example, from 10xe2x88x923 mmHg to 300 mmHg (0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa).
Mention can be made, for example, of volatile silicone oils, such as volatile cyclic or linear silicones, and cyclocopolymers. Mention may also be made of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, such as volatile isoparaffins and volatile fluoro oils.
In one specific embodiment, the volatile oils can constitute the majority of the oily phase. Thus, they can be present therein in a proportion of at least 50% by weight, and in some embodiments, in a proportion of at least 75% by weight, or even 100% by weight, of the oily phase.
The oils can be present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 5% to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and in one embodiment, from 20% to 75% by weight.
The composition according to the invention can be in solid form. This means that, in the absence of mechanical or thermal stimulation (such as heating), no collapse of the composition is observed when it is outside the container containing it.
The composition can have the conventional viscoelastic behavior of a composition of solid type.
Moreover, the hardness of the composition according to the invention can be such that the composition is self-supporting and can disintegrate readily to form a satisfactory deposit on the skin and the lips. This hardness can range from 0.04 N to 3 N, in some embodiments, from 0.1 N to 2.5 N, and in other embodiments, from 0.5 N to 2 N. This hardness can be measured according to a method of penetration of a probe into the composition and in particular using a texture analyser (for example TA-XT2 from Rheo) equipped with an acrylic cone with an apex angle of 45xc2x0. The hardness measurement is carried out at 22xc2x0 C. at the center of five samples of the composition, according to the method described in the examples.
The composition can comprise little or no wax. This means that the composition comprises less than about 5% by weight of wax, relative to the total weight of the composition, and in other embodiments, less than 2% by weight, or even less than 0.5% by weight of wax. The composition can contain no waxes (i.e., 0%).
For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic fatty compound, which is solid at room temperature (about 25xc2x0 C.), which undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change of state, which has a melting point of greater than about 40xc2x0 C. which may range up to 200xc2x0 C., and which has an anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state.
In general, the size of the crystals in the wax is such that the crystals defract and/or scatter light, giving the composition containing them a more or less opaque, cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a microscopically and macroscopically detectable recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture is obtained (opalescence).
For the purposes of the invention, the waxes are those generally used in cosmetics and dermatology.
Representative waxes that may be mentioned include natural waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, such as beeswax, montan wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, china wax, flax wax, pine wax, cotton wax, ouricury wax, lignite wax, rice bran wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax and cork fiber wax.
Mention may also be made of paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, ozokerites, hydrogenated oils with a melting point of greater than about 40xc2x0 C., such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, polyethylene waxes derived from the polymerization of ethylene, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, fatty acid esters and glycerides with a melting point of greater than about 40xc2x0 C., and silicone waxes such as alkyl, alkoxy and/or esters of poly(di)methylsiloxane that are solid at 40xc2x0 C.
The composition according to the invention can moreover comprise the constituents usually used in the type of application envisaged.
For example, it can comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from:
ketones that are liquid at room temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone and acetone;
alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, such as ethanol, isopropanol, diacetone alcohol, 2-butoxyethanol and cyclohexanol;
glycols that are liquid at room temperature, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and pentylene glycol;
propylene glycol ethers that are liquid at room temperature, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate and dipropylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether;
short-chain esters (comprising 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate and isopentyl acetate;
ethers that are liquid at room temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether and dichlorodiethyl ether;
alkanes that are liquid at room temperature, such as decane, heptane, dodecane and cyclohexane;
cyclic aromatic compounds that are liquid at room temperature, such as toluene and xylene; and
aldehydes that are liquid at room temperature, such as benzaldehyde and acetaldehyde.
It is also possible to incorporate a hydrophilic phase into the composition according to the invention, for example in an amount ranging from 0 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and in some embodiments, from 1 to 5% by weight. This lipophilic phase can comprise hydrophilic active agents and/or hydrophilic gelling agents. For example, it can comprise moisturizers such as glycerol.
The composition can also comprise a dyestuff which can be chosen from lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments and nacres usually used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, and mixtures thereof. This dyestuff is generally present in a proportion ranging from 0.01% to 40% relative to the total weight of the composition, and in some embodiments, from 5% to 25% by weight.
Thus, the composition can comprise a particulate phase, which is generally present in a proportion ranging from 0 to 30% by weight, and in some embodiments, from 0 to 20% by weight, and which can comprise pigments and/or nacres and/or fillers usually used in cosmetic compositions. The term xe2x80x9cpigmentsxe2x80x9d should be understood as meaning white or colored, mineral or organic particles intended to color and/or opacify the composition. The term xe2x80x9cfillersxe2x80x9d should be understood as meaning colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar particles intended to give body or rigidity to the composition, and/or softness, a matte effect and/or uniformity to the make-up result. The term xe2x80x9cnacresxe2x80x9d should be understood as meaning iridescent particles which reflect light.
The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and/or organic, of micrometric or nanometric size. Mineral pigments which may be mentioned include titanium dioxide, zirconium dioxide and cerium dioxide, as well as zinc oxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide and ferric blue. Organic pigments which may be mentioned include carbon black and barium, strontium, calcium and aluminium lakes.
Among the nacres which may be envisaged, mention may be made of mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment and with bismuth oxychloride, as well as colored titanium mica.
The fillers can be mineral or synthetic, and lamellar or non-lamellar. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, Nylon powder, polyethylene powder, Teflon, starch, titanium mica, natural mother-of-pearl, boron nitride, microspheres such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), Polytrap (Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls from Toshiba, for example).
The composition according to the invention can also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration, for example in cosmetics, such as antioxidants, fragrances, dyes, essential oils, preserving agents, cosmetic active agents, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sphingolipids, self-tanning compounds such as DHA, sunscreens, surfactants, gelling agents, polymers, for example hydrocarbon-based polymers such as polybutene, polyalkylenes, polyacrylates, and silicone polymers or derivatives which are compatible with fatty substances. These additives can generally be present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0 to 10% by weight.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s), and/or the amount thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the addition envisaged.
The compositions according to the invention can be applied to facial and body skin, to mucuous membranes and/or to keratin fibers such as the nails, the eyelashes and the hair.
They can be in any envisageable pharmaceutical form, such as a solid or soft oily gel optionally comprising water; a solid or gelled oil-in-water, water-in-oil or multiple emulsion; a dispersion of oil in water; and a multiphase system, such as a two-phase system. They can have the appearance of a cream, an ointment, a soft paste, a salve, or a cast or molded solid, such as a stick.
They can be, for example, in the form of a stick or a dish, in the form of a transparent anhydrous rigid gel, or in the form of a transparent anhydrous stick.
The gelation of the oil is such that a rigid structure in the form of a tube or a stick can be obtained. When they are colored, these tubes can give, after application, a deposit of homogeneous color which does not migrate in the wrinkles and fine lines of the skin, such as those surrounding the lips, or those around the eyes.
These compositions can find an application as body hygiene compositions, for example in the form of deodorant sticks; as hair compositions, for example as styling sticks or make-up sticks for the hair; as make-up compositions for facial or body skin or for mucous membranes, for example as lipsticks, foundations cast as a stick or a dish, face powders, eyeshadows, fixing bases to be applied to a conventional lipstick, concealer sticks, lip glosses, eyeliners, mascaras or temporary tattoo products; as care compositions for the skin or mucous membranes, for example as lipcare balms or bases, body ointments or daily care creams; and as antisun compositions or self-tanning compositions.
For example, the compositions can find an application as transfer-resistant make-up or care compositions, such as transfer-resistant lipsticks or transfer-resistant foundations.